I arrived in Puttalam por la manana, secured lodging, and went for a spin on the nearby peninsula. Destination: Kalpitiya. I surmounted my first military checkpoint without incident. The soldiers asked where I was headed, but the question felt more like a product of curiosity than regulation. The peninsula isn’t a tourist hotspot. Mr. White Stuff on a dirt bike is a rare event. I received many familiar “What the hell is that and why is it here?” stares I was so accustomed after my Indo sojourn, it almost felt like coming home. There wasn’t much to see in the way of attractions but this was fine by me. The ride was the destination. Old Dutch fort commandeered by the army and closed to the public? Ain’t no thang.…

Read More