Georgia — The Great Sojourn — theNOSTOMANIAC.com

154 - Svaneti and the Svans (Mestia, Georgia)

I left Abkhazia and returned to Georgia. I needed more time in the 'khaz,’ but the language barrier, money issues (no ATMs, no credit cards), and a slight tingle of foreboding pushed me onward and upward. Always heed the tingle.

I crossed the border back to Zugdidi, then hopped a mini-bus to Mestia in northwest Georgia near the Russian border. Mestia lies in Svaneti, the land of the Svans. The landscape is breathtaking, the people friendly, and the history long and varied. It was eight days well spent, a highlight of my Georgian exploration. Without the time or inclination to update my journal, I went with whimsical bullet points. Go…

Georgia, Batch 26by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacNovember 21, 2022Mestia, Svaneti, Svans, Ushguli

150 - Georgian Hospitality (Tbilisi, Georgia)

I had my first peek at a marani (Georgian wine cellar) where Shota's family produced its own wine with grapes plucked from vines hanging over the courtyard. It was also my first taste of Georgian chacha (brandy), the local firewater stored in large glass jugs containing sticks of oak to add color and flavor. It’s their version of vodka, ranging from 50-80% alcohol. To me, it resembles an unholy combination of vodka and tequila. In the immortal words of Ralph Wiggum, “It tastes like burning.” Shota, being the…

Georgia, Batch 26by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacOctober 17, 2022Georgia, Martqopi

149 - Rough Patch… continued (Tbilisi, Georgia)

Drugs. Alcohol. Gambling. Money. Fame. (Insert personal vice here.) We all have a path to self-destruction, a dependency waiting to be realized. We’re all addicted to something. Some compulsions are more acceptable than others, but all can lead to perdition. My obsession was a feature, not a bug, of a quest to live unencumbered by convention… right? I’ll go out there, paint myself into a corner, and force a reckoning. I’ll figure it out. Fuck yeah. I’m a not-so-recovered travel-holic. My addiction was (is) wanderlust. (Or is it novel encounters?) It consumed me. Had I channeled it…

Georgia, Batch 26by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacOctober 13, 2022Georgia, Tbilisi

148 - Return to Kazbegi (Kazbegi, Georgia)

The myths and legends associated with this extinct volcano are as thick as the mist we encountered on the way up. A cave near Betlemi Hut was the prison of choice for Amirani (Georgia's version of Prometheus), the insolent son of a goddess who dared to share fire with mortals. The cave is also reputed to have housed Christ's manger, Abraham's tent, a golden cradle, a monkey paw, Merlin's cap, and Excalibur. (I may have added the last three out of a childish sense of blasphemy.) Only the pure of heart may view these objects. All others perish or go blind. I had no desire to do either, so I postponed my visit until I could purify my sins…

Georgia, Batch 25by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacOctober 3, 2022Georgia, Gergeti Trinity Church, Kazbegi, Mt. Kazbegi

147 - Random Tidbits and David Gareja Monastery (Tbilisi, Georgia)

Want to make a statement in Georgia? Go on a hunger strike. In a land where the supra reigns supreme and counting plates after an obnoxious celebratory feast is considered a barometer for familial wealth, refusing to eat is like refusing to breathe. Tsotne Gamsakhurdia, a man arrested for espionage and the son of the former president Zviad Gamsakhurdia, gave it a go. He claimed to eat or drink nothing for 120 days. Sure, that’s impossible (at least as far as water goes), but he got his point across… I think. Not sure what his point was. I can lie about eating? People are serious about food. And drinking. Burp…

Georgia, Batch 25by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacSeptember 21, 2022Georgia, Tbilisi, David Gareja monastery complex, Udabno Monastery

146 - Kazbegi & Hurricane Olef (Kazbegi to Tbilisi, Georgia)

Under Tsarist Russia, and later the U.S.S.R, religious services were banned, though it remained a popular tourist attraction. Evidence of Russian control remains on the outer walls a la Russian language graffiti. I found dates as far back as 1887 carved into the stone. After the fall of the Soviet Union, the locals dismantled a cable car that once ferried lazy day-trippers to the church, deeming the contraption a sacrilegious emblem of oppression. I wondered how they felt about the military helicopter filled with what appeared to be tourists that landed nearby. Somebody knew somebody important… heathens….

Georgia, Batch 25by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacSeptember 14, 2022Kazbegi, STEPANTSMINDA, Mt. Kazbegi, Gergeti Trinity Church

145 - Joey Stalin and Arsukidze’s Right Hand (Gori to Mtskheta, Georgia)

Mtskheta, the one-time capital of the eastern Georgian kingdom of Iberia, sits thirteen miles north of Tbilisi at the junction of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers, a once bustling trading port. At the center, you’ll find one of the most sacred churches in Georgia, the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (Church of the Life-Giving Pillar). The church’s history is rife with religious intrigue.

There once was a Jew from Mtskheta. Elias the Jew decided, for reasons unknown, to become Elias the Christian and just happened to be in Jerusalem during Christ's crucifixion…

Georgia, Batch 25by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacSeptember 8, 2022Gori, Georgia, Mtskheta, Joseph Stalin, Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

144 - Roei, Frode, & Dodo (Tbilisi, Georgia)

Roei was three years into a four-year, 66,000 km, bicycle expedition across the globe. He began in Alaska, heading to the tip of Patagonia where he hopped a plane to South Africa, made his way to Europe via East Africa, and then onto Asia. He concluded his trip in Australia before returning to Israel. As the only Israeli to attempt such a thing, he was a celebrity back in the homeland and had been featured on news broadcasts worldwide. He made the local news in San Diego when he was robbed at gunpoint in Baja California and then given a lift back to the US by American surfers to replenish his stolen equipment…

Georgia, Batch 25by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacSeptember 3, 2022Georgia, Tbilisi, Roei Sadan

143 - Independence Day (Tbilisi, Georgia)

May 26th is Georgia's Independence Day celebration, though it doesn’t commemorate the event you might think, i.e. the country's liberation from the Soviet Union on April 9th, 1991. Instead, it celebrates the first liberation from Russia in 1918, a result of the Russian Civil War. Freedom was short-lived. The Red Army marched on Tbilisi in 1921. The U.S.S.R is no more. The Cold War is dead. Someone should’ve told the Kremlin.

I’m no geopolitical wonk, but allow me to summarize. After the U.S.S.R fell, Georgia, along with the Soviet republics under Russia’s control, declared independence in 1991…

Georgia, Batch 25by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacAugust 30, 2022Georgia, Tbilisi, Russo-Georgian War

142 - Scenes From Tiflis (Tbilisi, Georgia)

I spent the next nine days exploring Georgia’s capital, Tbilisi, a street photographer’s wet dream. I clocked a good fifty miles on foot, met a hostel owner named Dodo, ate a shit ton of pork and cheese pie (Khachapuri), had a few alcoholic dalliances, was denied casino entry for wearing “sporting clothes and slippers,” instigated another heated altercation, and was mesmerized by the Georgian National Ballet.

Georgia likes tourists. A lot. U.S. and E.U. citizens don’t require a visa to reside, work, or study for 365 days…

Georgia, Batch 24by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacAugust 20, 2022Georgia, Tbilisi

141 - Georgia Timeline

1801-04 - Most of present-day Georgia becomes part of the Russian Empire.

1879 - History's best-known Georgian, future Soviet leader Iosif Dzhugashvili (Joseph Stalin), is born in the town of Gori.

1918 - Independent Georgian state declared in wake of Russian Revolution.

1921 - Red Army invades, Georgia absorbed into emerging Soviet Union.

1956 March - Protests against Soviet leader Nikita Krushchev's de-Stalinisation policy…

Georgia, Batch 24by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacAugust 15, 2022Georgia